odds & ends

I have one more post to put up after this one.
Then, that'll be the end of the Ireland stories.
At least for now.


One day I met a foursome of caravaners. Suzanne & Dirk from Germany and Fay & Allen from Yorkshire. You can rent a horse drawn carriage and tour the country-side the old fashioned way. The caravans were small with no fridge and a propane stove. You parked at a farm and if you were lucky the farmer would let you use his shower - for a price.

I met them on the boat to Holy Island and offered to drive them to various historic sights (parking horses can be such a hassle). We saw many local attractions I hadn't yet had time to visit. Thanks to them I've now seen the oldest church in Ireland that was attended by Brian Boru himself. We ended our day with a pleasant picnic of tea and biscuits in the field where they were camped for the day. (I was later to learn that Suzanne & Dirk's horse got loose the next day and the farmer had to chase it down in his car.)


This is Brian. He lived in a caravan, too - except his looked more like what we call a camper - no electricity, and a hose from a local farmer was his running water. I met him while he was hitch-hiking (we would meet several more times this way). We ended up going to a pub together and then I offered him a ride home. I was astounded by where his caravan was not only because it was a good 2-3 miles from the main road but because the road to his house wasn't lit up. Which meant he walked in the complete dark every night. That's amazing to me mostly because - I'm afraid of the dark - there, I said it.



This is the Spancil Hill Horse Show. It was the 23rd of June. Always has been, always will be, no matter what the song says. There were horses everywhere and you had to look down to keep out of the horse poop and up to keep from getting kicked. Never a dull moment.


This is my last night at Keane's, a wonderful little pub in Mountshannon. They sold everything from gas, to milk, to Guinness. The pictures blurry because the pace is frenetic (and we were a bit blurry ourselves by that time).
That's Malena on my left - she sang like Marlena Dietrich. Tony is over there to my right - he sang Bob Dylan tunes - thankfully not like Dylan.
The whole bar sang along with me to I'll Tell Me Ma. It was a magical night.

down on the farm

Part of my experience was working on an organic produce farm.


Sunny Meadows Farm
This is an organic farm that is doing it's best to be entirely organic (the only machinery is a small roto-tiller and 2 donkeys are being trained to plow, pull and of course, fertilize).

Working on the farm was an enriching and rewarding experience not only for what we were accomplishing (helping to keep Ireland organic, GMO and pesticide free) but for the time spent working with "himself" to try and make a living for his family doing what he loves best - working the land.


Farmer Lojo

I did everything from plowing to planting to fertilizing to weeding. One of my favorite jobs was spreading seaweed fertilizer on the new beds. I particularly liked this job because the seaweed reminded me of the ocean. Digging the raised beds by hand was back-breaking work mostly due to the plethora of stones and rock which seems to grow from the very soil. That's my squash/gourd/pumpkin patch you see next to me. I'd put them in about my third week there and they were already starting to fruit by the time I left. my little babies...

* Interesting note:
Some squash and gourds have only recently been introduced to Ireland...
Ireland is the land started traditions like All Saints Day which is where we get the holiday Halloween (All Hallows Eve or Samhain in Gaelic). In America it's natural for us to associate carved pumpkins with this holiday. However, prior to the recent introduction of pumpkins to Ireland turnips were carved for this holiday.



the poly tunnel (green house) full of salad fixins, flowers and...potatoes!

And, maybe the best part about working on an organic farm was bringing home fresh produce each day to turn into a very satisfying meal after a hard days work!

Carved in Stone

One cannot contemplate the past without remembering those who came before us.
The ruins of buildings, castles and whole villages only reminds us that once there were people who lived in and populated these structures.


Inis Cealtra, Lough Derg, Co. Clare
The landscape is dotted with these reminders both structural and spiritual. One such place was "Inis Cealtra" - Holy Island - that is a current sactuary for both.


view of the Round Tower thru the door of St. Brigid's Church on Inis Cealtra


the old with the new...

And, of course, one cannot comment on these monuments without noting the splendid detail in which the ancestors were remembered...

Hello everyone...

I wanted to put up some more pix and stories but I'm having an issue with this computor so - - stories it is...

Now that I'm back in the good ol' U S of A there's a few differences that I've noted because of my Green Island adventure:

I'm still a little shaky at intersections.
While learning to drive in Ireland it took me a few adrenaline rushes to remember which way to look for oncoming traffic. Its amazing how quickly our brains adopt when spurred on my the threat of imminent death.

(Point of interest: in the 6 weeks I was driving in Ireland I think there was only 2 or 3 times when I didn't go to the wrong side of the car.)

Oh and something else that may amuse you (it did me)...
The first time I got into my car I smashed my left hand into the driver's door trying to grab the stick shift while at the same time my left foot was wheeling about in mid air looking for a non-existant clutch pedal - seeing as how I drive an automatic.

I didn't realize I had seen my first Robin of the spring because an Irish Robin bears very little resemblance to a North American Robin other than the red at its breast which isn't much help seeing as how the Irish Robin's breast colour is somewhat muted and not as defined.

There are 2 kinds of drivers: those who wish to get there as quickly as possible and those who wish to get there... eventually. This holds true in both countries.
The difference being, in Ireland one must be aware that around every blind corner is the danger of a tractor and because of this the average Irish driver has very little road rage.

Guiness is just as cold there as it is here - but its a bit sweeter here than it is there. (And black 'n' tans are soldiers not a beer drink.)

Back home I am inundated with road signs; turn here, turn there, this is the road, that's the road, you are here, etc. In Ireland you had to know where you were going (and all the names of the towns on the way) because there wasn't any signs to tell you where you are so you had to just trust that if you hadn't seen a sign for your destination in awhile you were probably going the right way. (you hoped - unless you missed the sign that gave you your turn off but you didn't know it was your turn off because it identified some obscure town that you didn't realize was on the way to the town you were headed - sheesh!!)

oh, and one more thing: East Clare Rocks!! Come On The Banner!!

Slainte!

These were the days my friends... 21 June, 2005

I left Danno & Marcie Solstice morning and made my way out of Northern Ireland and back to my sweet, non-smoking Republic. As was my want I checked out a few of the sights that aren't on the maps. As I drove through Donegal I saw a sign that said "Passage Tomb". Curious, I followed the signs.

This was a passage tomb I found outside somewhere near Sligo. There were a few of these tombs scattered along the hilltops of Carrowkeel. You had to go through a fence, along a rutted, stone path, past the sheep and up to the top of the hill but the trip was well worth it.

This tomb had a wonderful view of the Co. Donegal (I call this...a tomb with a view...) and one can only imagine the time, effort and kind of community respect that the ancient people had for the passing of life that would have them cut stone and carry rock to make these tombs.

The insides were just as impressive...



After a bit more driving I drove into Donegal city only to discover a gorgeous old friary where it is said that one of The Four Masters once resided. This friary sat right along Donegal bay just outside the city. The ruins were impressive and one could easily imagine the monks working and worshipping the day away in such a place.


I had noticed this on the way to Derry and so when I found the sign that said, "Yeats Country" on my return trip I knew I had to stop. The sign led me to an old cathedral. Within the cemetery just outside the cathedral did lie himself. Its said that his great-grandfather was rector of the church, too.

Solstice in Mountshannon.
It took longer than I realized to make my way back to Mountshannon but make it I did. Luckily, the summer days in Ireland last quite a long time and since this was the longest day of the year I knew I was safe. I got back to the house and gathered up Dad and the kids and we headed out to celebrate the solstice.


We found our own little private dolmen just a few kilometers away. Its not exactly the Burren dolmen but it was all ours for the night. The girls, Emer and Laoise helped to celebrate the last day of the summer sun with sparklers and everyone did a little dance.

That's Laoise on the left and Emer on the right. And we're all convinced that's a faerie ring in the background...We laid a bouquet of flowers and a message of peace in the dolmen and slogged our way back out of the bog.
Point of Interest: This shot was taken without a flash at about 10:pm.

I'm leaving on a jet plane...

Today I get on a plane and leave this lovely Island. But I know in my heart it won’t be the last time I see Ireland.


What has been most rewarding and enriching is the chance to have lived in Ireland rather than just visit. I don’t say this because of how long I was here but more for the opportunity I was given to be a part of a family and a community for awhile. I could’ve spent all my time running from ruin to dolmen to castle to stone circle (which in all fairness I did do for a bit). But instead I kept close to the little town of Mountshannon where I did my shopping, shared a pint, met the people, made friends, worked on an organic produce farm, had my first Irish breakfast and became enchanted by the place and its people. Pat and Jane at the An Cupan Caife (where I could count on a perfect Latte to take away), Anita & Helen at Keane’s Pub (a pint of ale, a litre of gas or a quart of milk - they had it all), Tony & Martina (my session mates), Rose Marie (her eyes were always full of mischief) even the ladies at the Top station all became friends whose memories I’ll bring home and keep safe until the next time I find myself on this lovely island. (East Clare Rules by the way... come on the banner!)

I'd most like to thank the family for making feel at home in their home. I'll miss the girls, and Paddy (the dog) and the lovely, mad, frenetic routine that was helping get everyone off and out the door each morning.

To be here in June is to be here as the summer festival season is just getting started here in Ireland. I attended many a Fleadh (flahv = festival) in Limerick, Ennis, Galway and, of course Mountshannon. I saw street performers, story-tellers, grand displays of art and everywhere I went, music! The sessions, the concerts, the singers all made my experience exactly as I had hoped and more! One of the most unique souvenirs I got was a picture of myself and some of the family in the County Clare magazine's spread on festivals - I WAS HERE and I can prove it!

I have only one regret; that I wasn’t able to bring each of you with me. To share this incredible, wonderful experience with those who made it possible. I hope that you all get the opportunity to someday live out a dream as I have.

Thank you, to all of you who were apart of the dream - from the bottom of my heart, thank you.

Slan Na Bhaile
Lojo

ps. I still have a few stories to tell so I’ll leave this blog alive for a while to make sure I’ve had a chance to post them all.

and now for the pictures...

This is the view I had as I left for Limerick tat first morning.
This was a dolmen that was near Lough Dur. The literature said it was the tomb of a chieftan. It also mentioned that when it was discovered in the late 1800's there was a woman living within and had made it her home.

The famed White Star Line in Cobh Co. Cork. The last dock of the Titanic.
And no trip to Cobh is complete without visiting the Roaring Donkey Pub!
This was a stone circle I found while making one of my infamous "off-the-beaten-path" trips.
Just a glimpse of the beauty of Killarney - and me ;)
The view from the Peacock Farm Hostel. (Taken while i was parked because this view starts at the edge of the road...)
My wild Irish Garden.
An homage to Fungi the dolphin in the town of An Daingean (Dingle)

Words are worth a thousand pictures: Final Chapter

This is my final installment of my Hoiday from my Holiday.
I'll have some pix to go along with this story as well as more current news posted soon!

Monday Morning:
It was late when I got back to the Hostel and early when I rose to continue my trip the next morning. My roommates were up and ready for the day but their friends in the next room were not yet up. My roommates turned out to be a couple from Poland who were journalists on holidayThey approached me asking if I could take them to the trailhead. It was the opposite direction of where I was going but it meant I would make the beautiful journey thru the Killarny National Reserve once more – and its certainly worth the round trip. . We passed the time discussing the difference between the English language and Irish. They found it difficult to understand there employer’s Irish english, for example; when her employer told her to make a sandwich with “no meesh” she was unsure of what was being requested, eventually it came out that the sandwich was to be made “without meat”.

Finally on my way in the right direction, up through Killarny and up to Tralee where I made my way to Dingle. The Dingle Peninsula is probably best known for its music and its dolphin, Fungi. Unfortunately I wasn’t able to experience either (music wasn’t until evening andFungi must’ve been taking a lie down) but I did enjoy walking around the town and harbour, talking to locals (which can be tricky since most of them speak Gaelic) and browsing the local art-ware. The local craft was amazing and I found myself browsing studio after studio wishing I’d win the Little Woods Lotto so I could bring it all home with me.

I drove around the Dingle peninsula – once again takingthe road less traveled – until I came to Connor’s Pass at the top of which is the most incredible view of the entire peninsula and both Dingle and Galway Bay. Just past this scenic overlook is the most narrow road I’ve yet to maneuver. The transportation department had kindly marked the middle of the road with white dashes - but to say that a car, any car could stay to ones own side without leaving half the vehicle on the other side of the cliff or smashed into the mountainside would be an understatement. So, down the middle of the road went Iwith no regard to the dashed white line. And glad I was that no one was coming up that part of the road as I was coming down. The prospect of having to drive in reverse looking for a wide spot to allow passage was not to my liking.

I would’ve loved to have stayed the night in Dingle but, much to my chagrin, I found my energy lagging and the need to get back to my friends and my bed most desirable. So off I went back towards Tralee where I promptly stated to myself, “Look, another quaint, medieval village” and kept on driving straight thru to Mountshannon and what I call home for these few weeks in Ireland.


The End (…of this story at least…)

Hello from the great North!

Hello My Fine Folk!

HAPPY SOLSTICE! Soak it up while its out there cuz this is the last and longest day of summer. Here in Ireland the morning is off to a bright and showery start :)

I'm interrupting my Holiday blog for a moment because I just wanted to let you all know what a fantastic time I've had in Derry over the last 2 days!

I've been hanging out with this guy I met back in Dublin, Danno (remember? from the hostel?) He's from Derry and invited me to visit for a couple of days and play some tunes. So I did.

(Thats Danno and his girlfriend Marcie - she's from Wisconsin)

We went to a session and later he introduced me to his friend Sharon who let me play her breaks. She's a fantastic singer/songwriter and I hope we all hear much more of her very, very soon! Now I've played the North and the South!


Danno and Marcie and I spent a day walking the walls of Derry - the only intact city wall in all of Ireland. Marcie was great craic because she studies/teaches conflict resolution at UWM and was a veritable fount of information about the city of London/Derry.

(notice the red, white, and blue curb to signify the neighborhood is Protestant)

I saw some wonderful images of Peace outside of this neighborhood which gives me Hope for the future of Ireland. All of this just makes me appreciate those with whom we love and trust and to remember to always be respectful to one another.
It's not that hard folks...

peace.

Words are worth a thousand pictures: Part III

Sunday Morning:
The next morning I ate my breakfast (actually, I had cereal and wrapped my breakfast [fried egg and rasher] up for later) and got back on the road. Along the way I picked some wild flowers – one of the kids from yesterday had identified a beautiful flower called Fox Glove and noted it only blooms for one week. I was very glad that I was lucky enough to be here when they are in bloom. The Fox Glove has bell-like blooms that ‘fall’ from the stalk smaller on top and growing larger towards the bottom. My little Wild Irish Garden included a small, yellow flower with waxy petals, honeysuckle, daisy, fern, fuchsia, bog rushes and several others that I couldn’t identify. They all went into a used coffee cup and kept me company the rest of my trip.

My drive this morning took me around the Ring of Beara. This is the smaller of the southwest peninsulas but what beauty! I crawled around an abandoned building, skirted the coast and followed some signs to a stone ring/circle (also known as ‘dolmen’). The circle was small but no less impressive when one is reminded that these stones (sometimes weighing up to 10 tons) were hacked out, moved and placed with precision to the solstice sun – all without the use of power tools or moving equipment. whoa.

The road to the dolmen left me no room to turn around so I just kept going in hopes that it would eventually hook up to the main road. This being a peninsula I figured my prospects were pretty good. This side trip turned out to be one of the more beautiful views of the Irish countryside I’d yet to experience. At one point I came around a steep curve and found myself in what seemed like an abandoned village. Several large stone homes closely scattered thru a small valley – no roofs, no windows - but still I was given the impression of a neighborhood. (Later reflection with my host brought to mind the Great Famine and how whole villages could be wiped out. another whoa.) I finally made it back out to the road and finished the ring and then up to Kenmare and Killarny.

It was somewhere between Kenmare and Killarney when I got the ultimate Irish experience. A farmer was moving his cows to the next pasture by shaking a bucket of oats at them to follow. They did. Right past my car. At one point they all moved towards my car and the lead cow tried to look into my window as if to say, “Have you anything to eat? that guy’s too far away”. Does it get anymore Irish than that?

I decided to get the sleeping amenities out of the way first and found myself driving thru the Muckross countryside looking for the Peacock Farm Hostel. I was having some trouble finding the road so I turned back to ask a local for directions. I found an old man trimming his hedge and stopped to ask. We talked for a good 15 minutes after he’d given me the directions and before I took off he asked, “So, would you be having a cup of tea, then”? I briefly considered it but then declined in favor of finding the hostel before dark – but that might’ve made for a fine addition to this story, eh?

Peacock Farm was true to its name with a Peacock named Randy, some of his brood, a few ducks and a pond filled with trout and koi. For 10 euro I got a nice bed, a gorgeous view of the Killarny valley and an alarm clock that sounded a lot like a peacock.

I dropped off my things and was ready for my afternoon. I drove back thru the Killarny National Park(never stops being gorgeous) and headed along the Ring of Kerry. I wasn’t able to do the entire ring and so, once again found the road less traveled. So much so that it became nothing more than tire tracks for awhile. It was late when I finally got to Killarny – too late for the stores to be open but not late enough for the music to begin so I thought I’d busy myself with some window shopping while, once again, I looked for the ‘ceol agus craic’.

My browsing took me to a pub that said “session tonight”. I asked at the bar if anyone could join in and the bartender said yes and pointed to the guy playing banjo. I introduced myself and asked if I could join him. He was happy for the company and I was happy for a chance to play in a session in Killarny. When I came back with my mandolin he was still sitting alone. I sat down and we started swapping tunes. We swapped tunes for the rest of the evening – just he and I. We played trad tunes, non-trad tunes, my tunes, his tunes, folk tunes, rock tunes and generally supplied the ceol agus craic to the bar patrons.
Thanks to Patrick for the music and Michael for the Guiness!

Words are worth a thousand pictures: Part II

Now, the next part of this trip I called, “Taking a Holiday from my Holiday”. I spent the weekend touring about the coastline seeing as much as I could in 3 days.

Saturday Morning:
South from Limerick is Cork, which I drove right on past and straight to Cobh, the last place on earth that saw the Titanic. Cobh is a beautiful little harbour town with very narrow, steep streets. There were concerts in the gazebo on the beach and a farmers market where I bought a veggie tart for lunch, followed by a pear tart for dessert. :p Though I didn’t make it to the Emmigrants Museum I did tour through the Church of St. Colmon where many who boarded the Titanic received a blessing. (In general, the Churches and Cathedrals are spectacular and one should take time to visit them no matter what your spiritual tastes.)

Next I drove around the harbour to Kinsale. Now, you’re going to hear this a lot but Ireland is lousy with quaint little medieval towns and quaint little fishing villages. Kinsale is no exception. The famous Kinsale Smock comes from this city. Kinsale was a bit trendier than Cobh but no less quaint for the boats floating in the harbour.

From Kinsale I started up the coast towards Killarny.
(In fact, after spending so much time inland it was a nice change of pace to smell the salt air and hear the cries of the gulls. Wherever I drove it was with the passenger window rolled down so I could get a good whiff of sea air!)

Somewhere around Skibereen I picked up some high school kids on their way to Bantry. It was nice to have some company in the car for a bit and they were grateful for the lift.
This pre-empted my scenic tour of that area but it turned out for the best. You see, you can’t get anywhere from anywhere in Ireland quickly. If it’s not the roads, tractors or cows that are slowing you down, it’s the views. Once I dropped the kids off (ach, that makes me sound old) I got some dinner and planned on an ambitious route to Killarny… came to my senses and finally stopped for the night in the wee mountain town of Glencairiff.

It was close to 10p when I stopped for the night and it took a couple of tries to find a room since most people/hosts had gone to bed already. After cleaning up I walked from pub to pub looking for the ‘ceol agus craic’ (music and fun). There was music coming from every pub but I settled on the one next to my B&B because it sounded the most traditional. I’ve found that in general traditional Irish music usually includes a really bad drum machine and a country style swing to it - tonight was no exception.

Tony and John played country style Irish tunes but theyhad the best good drum machine in town. I was singing right along with the rest of the bar crowd to every tune. Next to me was Gus, a nice older fellow who told me stories and bought my drinks. Gus told me about a dog he once had that he’d received from another family. This dog never listened to commands but was always alert to its name. Gus said it took his family a time before they realized that the dog only knew Gaelic, seeing as how the last family who owned this dog was from Dingle where Gaelic is the first language.

The highlight of this evening was marked by my debut performance in front of a pub crowd in a non-traditional session setting. When Tony heard I was a musician he asked if I wanted to play the break I said, “Yeah”! I played a couple of Irish tunes and Girrrl – all to rousing applause. So, there it is folks, I’ve played my music in an Irish pub!

Words are worth a thousand pictures: Part I

My friend, Pat, brought to my attention that I haven’t written in a while. Mea Culpa, Pat.
Truthfully, I have much to write about but haven’t had the time to write. But, today I will dispense with the pictures for a bit and describe to you all that has happened in the last few days. So, get yourself a nice cup of tea, sit back comfortably and on with the blog…

After 3 weeks here I’ve come to find myself going native, so to speak. I’m learning the proper pronunciation of some of the Gaelic, ordering chicken on brown bread (wheat bread) with salad (coleslaw) and I even eat my fried egg sandwiches with brown sauce (like a mild steak sauce). In fact, I’ve found my whole experience to be enhanced simply for the everyday living. Working on the farm has given me an almost parental feeling of responsibility to my plants, the locals have come to expect a song from me whenever I’m at the pub and I don’t feel my day has started properly until I’ve got my “latte to take away” from the local bistro. Its one thing to be here to experience the life and its another thing altogether to feel like you belong.

The people of Ireland are friendly as they come. While asking directions to a hostel I was offered a cup of tea before going on my way. When I needed help to change a flat the rental company advised, “just wait awhile, someone will stop and help” and someone did. There’s always a finger wave as you pass each other on the road and there’s always a song being sung in the pubs. Reno may be the worlds biggest little city but I think Ireland is probably the world’s biggest little country.

Now, one can choose to do the touristy things or one can find their own touristy things to do. Going off the beaten path has been quite exciting since there tends to be less crowds, no entrance fees (save for a box nailed to a post asking for a donation), and you’ll see things that many people won’t.

That being said, if you’re in Limerick there’s plenty of Histouristry to be had and places like St. Mary’s can be more interesting for poking in the corners and finding something like the “Lepers Squint” –where the lepers of the community watched the proceedings, by squinting thru a small slit in the wall of the church. From this squint they would also receive alms and communion. Or talking to the ‘living history’ players at King John’s Castle to ask them about the profession they’re representing (coiner, smithy, etc) will get you surprisingly knowledgeable answers. Even the Hunt Museum turned out to be even more interesting then at first appeared because of the manuscripts, natural history and other objets’ d’ arts that can be found if one just opens a drawer or two…

Knowing a local will definitely enhance any experience. Besides my hosts I’ve made a new friend, Cian. Cian, suggested places to visit (worth while touristy and non-touristy) as well as taking me to some of his favorite pubs and introducing me to some of the colourful local folk. I spent a fine evening swapping tunes and stories with Noel and Kate and another evening being introduced to Bacon Fry crisps at Charlie Malone’s (Hi Paddy!).

Saturday morning we went to the Limerick Market, a combination of farmer’s market and ‘car boot’ (flea) market. Tomato plants side-by-side with power tools. A lovely little coffee shop that served up a baguette topped with gruyere cheese and sun-dried tomatoes was just the thing for breakfast and to send me on my way to my next adventure!..

Limerick Town

There once was a musical girrrl
who went on a Celtical curl.
With her hair all a-glow
and her guitar on the go,
she gave the whole island a whirl!

This is my new friend Cian at the stone circle in Loch Gur



The Grange circle of Loch Gur is the largest in Ireland. The area of Lough Gaire has been an archelogical treasure house of stone age and bronze age wonders. When viewing the circle one os awed by the majesty of the trees that surround the circle only to realize that the circle was there hundreds of years before the trees...


I've visited King Johns Castle, The Hunt Museum and St. Mary's Cathedral here in Limerick. There's even a bronze shield at the Hunt that was found at Lough Gaire.

Over the past week I've had the opportunity to attend several fantastic trad sessions (musical jam circles). The town where I'm staying had a festival last week with visiting musicians. I played my fingers to the bone all weekend - it was grand!
The boys at Peppers in Feakle were my favorites - I'm an East Clare musician now baby!

Here's some pix from my musical visits...


The view from the musicians gallery at Bunratty Castle


The actual Guiness Harp - the symbol of Ireland. (not the shamrock)


Lunasa! I saw the band in a church at the edge of town.
They were brilliant and it was truly a magical night.

Signs o' the times: Things that make you go hmmm....

Oh... you mean that's bad?



Ye old tourist trappe.


Only in Ieland would a lawyer leave his keys in the door.


Well, it sure ain't the big city...


AND DON'T YOU FORGET IT!

sign o' the times Part 1: On The Road

This is what amounts to a billboard in most of the country.
Notice the lack of a sign actually identifying the road...




This is the icon for "Hurler Crossing"



Remember, that's litres folks.



yep. the stories are true...

Howya!

I’ve been here just over a week and this is what I’ve been up to…

> Learning how to drive on the left.
Its been a struggle but I think I’ve got it. The hardest part is remembering to look up and left for the rear-view mirror while trying not to wipe off the left side-view mirror on the quaint stone walls that seem to come all too close to the car. I’m still a bit skittish around the big trucks but its getting easier.

> Failing at a Galwegian accent.
I’m not trying to feign an accent it just sort of happens – and poorly I might add.

> Joined a trad session in Ireland.
Ennis to be exact. I had a great time and didn’t make too big a fool of myself. Except when I tried to start a reel and no one joined in. They recognized the tune but I must’ve played it too American. However, I redeemed myself when I sang ‘Come Up The Stairs’ and was invited to the evening session.

> Toured a castle.
Bunratty to be precise. It was a 12th century castle with an interior that spanned 3 centuries. The coolest part for me was the chance to climb up and down all the little spiral stairways – I love spiral stairways! There was a ‘folk’ village attached that was 18th century. I know, I know… you’d think I’d get enough of that at the MN Renaissance Festival, but it was still cool considering the shops were authentic. I originally stopped because they said they had world famous Mead. But for those of you familiar with James Baird Mead we all know there is no other mead but his!

> Had to Change a flat.
Now getting a flat tire is fairly easy here – most shoulders are little more than pot-holed tire tracks. Mine came in the form of a bent wheel. When I called the rental place (car hire) for assistance there advice was to wait for someone to come along and offer help. I was dubious of the advice and insistent for the help. But he was right. One lady helped with the hubcap cable and eventually a man on a bike asked if I needed assistance.
(By-the-by, when I took the tire in to be fixed the mechanic unbent the wheel and replaced the shredded tire for 15 euro (about $20). When’s the last time any mechanic did any tire work for $20 in the states?)

> The people are as friendly and helpful as they say.
From helping fix a flat to chatting me up at the local restaurant I’ve met nothing but good people. The Krew at Kinlay House, Damian at the Guiness Gravity Bar who made a shamrock in the foam of my pint, anyone who ever spoke slowly in order that I might understand the directions, the list goes on and on. Thanx to everyone!

> Popping down to the pub for a pint.
In my head I imagined sitting at a high top table drinking a warm pint of Guiness while listening to a traditional music session. What I get is tables that are close to the ground with little padded stools for sitting ‘round, a cold pint of Guiness (more often than not it’s a Bulmer’s cider for me), bad pop rock on the stereo, and a nation that hasn’t a clue what is a Black & Tan.

> Had a ‘Half Full Irish’ Breakfast. (one of everything rather than 2)
Egg, rasher (bacon), sausage, toast, juice, coffee, and half a white and half a black pudding. The white pudding is like a bready pork sausage patty and the ‘black’ comes from the addition of pigs blood. When in Rome…

As for the rain - they've had an unusually rainy spring but frankly, I thought it'd be worse. The weather's been mild and 'soft' (misty rain, 14-17 celsius) and the people have been friendly and warm. Its just grand!!

hmmm.....

looks like I've got some kinks to work out with my pics
on that last blog but I'll make it right soon enough.

In the meantime, here's a little something I found
in the local paper.

Classifieds:
PIGS FOR SALE
Exceptional value. Kill them yourself or
havethem killed. phone 087...

Personals:
40ish man seeks divorced or widowed woman
for long term relationship
preferably with 40-60 acres of land

you can't make this stuff up folks...

Sunday - a day of rest?!

Sunday I arose to start my day of being a tourist.
Since it was Sunday I went to church.
St. Patrick's Cathedral and then Christ Church.
These two churches have, amoung other things, the distinction of having had their choirs perform the debut of Handel's Messiah.
cool.

(oh by the way... my hair's no longer blue.)

They were gorgeous and full of history. St. Patrick's had a carved stone that made my fingers hurt just to think about all that carving and Christ Church had a musicians corner.
still cool.



This was followed by a trip to the National Wax Museum. The fancy name does nothing to help the fact that this is just another bad wax museum. Having said that, I still wet myself when Hannibal Lecter started shaking the bars of his cell.
not cool.


Off to the Dublin Castle- morelike a palace. Historic yes but I just wasn't that impressed. Except for the fact that Ireland has had 14 years of a female president and the current president ran un-opposed to take a second term.
very cool.



I nipped into a pub for a quick sec and - dammed if it wasn't U2 hanging out and having a quick session (they're playing in Cork).
I asked them about that tricky turn-around in the song, One and The Edge was nice enough to show me the chord changes.
coolest.


My day ended at the Guiness Factory. 'nuf said.

Happy Birthday To Me!

Today is my birthday (at least for a few more hours technically).
I spent the morning running in a forest, the afternoon strolling medieval streets, the early evening dealing with a flat tire on the Dublin Road from Galway and the rest of the evening spent with my Irish friends and hosts, Molly & Dermot and their brilliant girls, Emer & Laoise. (pics pending)

We had dinner and a pint (cider for me, thank you) across the road and then back here for dessert - chocolate cake,sparklers and potin (Irish distilled spirits), yeah, baby, yeah!.

Well, enough about me. What did you do on my Birthday?

Hello!
This is your weekend update.
Friday: Flew into Dublin and cabbed it to the Kinlay house.
My cabbie was from Korea and had an Asian/Irish accent - whoa.
Friday I spent the day checking out the sites and getting a feel for the place.
Friday night I spent trying to find live Irish music?!?!?
Found it! At the Ha'Penny Bridge Inn. The music was "frantic" as one patron
put it and I'd have to agree. Each song was faster than the last.
(I've never seen a button-box player sweat before.)
Now it's 3 AM and I'm feeling the effects of my flight so back to the hostel
I go for a few winks of refreshing sleep...

Saturday Morning Bright and Early:
Now that I'm feeling native I start walkingaround to look for things to do.
As I'm walking I stumble herself, The Tart With The Cart
(that's her behind me)


I also visited...
...the National Museum of Archeology - a brilliant display of
viking lore, medieval dig findings and a wonderful retrospective on all
the revolutions that made the Republic of Irelandand the Irish people what
they are today.
...Trinity College where one of the professors gave us a colourful history
of the college and its alumni like Oscar Wilde and Samuel Becket.
After which I dutifully ran to view the Book of Kells exhibit and was, indeed,
awed by the sheer magnitude of the detail of work - not to mention that all
that copying must've been a b*tch without the use of white-out.


But the highlight of my day was back at the hostel when, as I was coming in to
change into my evening attire I did here a tenor voice and acoustic guitar
making celticy sounds from the dining hall. I was about to take the stairs to my room when I heard said voice declare he would "sing a song from Cork about a hard cider".
I couldn't pass up an opportunity to play Johnny Jump Up and so grabbed my
mandolin and went in to join him. That's all it took and Danno (from Derry) and I
spent the better part of the next 2 hours regalingthe students and faculty of
UW-Whitewater. After which a few of us (student and faculty: Hi Linda, Lynn and Will!) went out to a local pub to here an honest to goodness Irishman sing Bob Dylan and Neil Diamond covers. What a night!

In the beginning...

Here's the fine hostel where I spent only a few hours sleeping each night.

Hello My Fine Folk!

I made it to the magical Kingdom - a.k.a. DUBLIN!
Its been a whirlwind of adventure these last 3 days starting with a
2 hour delay in Chicago (and they ran out of nuts ?!) and ending
with me sitting in an internet cafe trying to get this posted.

It all started last Friday at the Kinlay House Hostel smack dab in the heart of Dublin
nestled between the Dublin Castle, River Liffey and Christ Church.

I've got lots more to share so check back often!
Slainte
Lojo

Hello My Fine Folk,

I'm off to see the Wizard in his beautiful Emerald City!
This is a dream come true and I have several very good friends to thank for it ;)

6+ glorious weeks I'll spend playing music and learning to drink warm Guiness.
(ah, the sacrifices we artists make for our music, yes?)

I want to bring you with me - but you won't fit in my luggage
so I'm keeping this blog journal to let you know all about it
with words and hopefully a few pictures, too!

See ya when I get there!
Lojo